Norfolk Island is a small volcanic island (about 6 km by 6 km, or 12 square miles) in the Southern Pacific ocean at latitude 29 degrees south and about midway between New Zealand to its south and Australia, of which it is politically a part. That's why the background music is "Advance Australia Fair," the national anthem of Australia.   Begun as a penal colony of England in the 19th century, Norfolk is now a tourist haven, especially in the winter months, because of its mild climate which is tempered by the surrounding sea even in summer.   Norfolk is easily reached by air, with daily service from Australia and twice-weekly service from New Zealand.  Accommodations are in hotels, lodges, and apartments -- I stayed just out of the main settlement of Burnt Pine at Cascade Garden Apartments.

Norfolk Island is guarded all around by cliffs or reefs, so bringing the necessities of life to the island is difficult. Ships from New Zealand and Australia anchor offshore and goods (including motor vehicles) are brought to the jetty at Kingston or Cascade by lighters. The arrival of a ship is a big event -- that's where I saw the biggest crowd.

There's plenty to buy on Norfolk Island, especially high-quality items from all over the world, since Norfolk has no duties or taxes. I liked the Pacific Island art and craft at Atuuti shop in Burnt Pine. The market on Sunday is also interesting.

At Kingston on the south coast many of the buildings have been restored from early colonial days. Mercifully, the convict buildings have been allowed to decay. West of Burnt Pine is St Barnabas church, built when there was a large Melanesian mission on Norfolk Island.

During my weeklong visit I biked all the roads of the island, some of which are steep, especially near the coast, which is engirdled by cliffs. (You may go wrong but you can't go far on Norfolk.) Let's take an armchair tour of the island:

Cattle have the run of the island, except in Burnt Pine, from which they are excluded by "grids" (cattle stops). Apart from this bucolic charm, Norfolk Island is very modern.

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